The Christmas Bonfires of Beira

I’ve given the massive village madeiros (bonfires) at Christmas quite a bit of thought since my return to Portugal. While in the U.S., I used to be glued to posts about these bonfires to the point of frustration. They called to me…and I was far. Once across the Atlantic, I devised a plan to catch the biggest bonfire in the country during its different phases.

1. The hauling and assembling of the tree trunks in early December.

2. It’s lighting nearing Christmas eve.

3. And lingering long enough to enjoy the ambience these madeiros create all over the villages, towns and cities of Beira region—where this tradition is a major symbol of the holiday season.

As you travel from place to place in Beira, these bonfires seem to pop-up like spontaneous firepits. And just like firepits (though more dramatic), they’re a gathering point for friends and family to chat over a lasting flame. The beauty of the tradition lies in an invitation to step out of your home and celebrate the season in community. It prompts convivium and conversation. Since the fire burns slowly for several days, the smokiness in the air is soft and sets the mood like fireplaces do–except that it isn’t  confined to your living room, it’s everywhere you go. 

Though the church adopted the madeiros as a symbol of warming the baby Jesus on the cold winter’s night he was born, it’s believed their origin lies in a pagan ritual in honor of the “Natale Solis Invictus,” introduced through the Roman Empire by Emperor Aurelian in the year 274. Today, the tallest bonfire in the country is in Penamacor—where I have a chunk of my family ties. Because of it, the town has been branded Vila Madeira (Bonfire Village). To celebrate, every year the town organizes a series of events leading up to the lighting of the bonfire on December 23 at 23h50. There are concerts, theater groups, artisans and heaps of Christmas goodies to indulge in.

The big kick off is the “desfile” on December 8 when the local young men and women that have turned 18 (originally only men of military age participated) gather to parade the mounds of tree trunks that they’ve gathered to build the bonfire. They ride amid impressive logs that are piled up on tractors and loaders (these have replaced traditional bull drawn carriages) en route to the church square at the top of hilly Penamacor. An excavator awaits to assemble and pile high the trunks, while live music plays in the background. That year’s participants toss oranges (the fruit abounds in the region) to visitors watching while others play the accordion. The jovial vibe persists until the entire bonfire is raised to about the height of the church. What’s leftover is used as firewood throughout the winter.

Keeping such traditions alive isn’t easy, but these bonfires continue to burn bright…

by Sonia Nolasco